HOME...
A UNIQUE ETHOS » ETHICAL
INFORMATION
»
JEWELLERY CRAFTWASH
|
Designed and
entirely handmade by goldsmith artist Kerstin Laibach ...
including chains and closing mechanisms. |
Jewellery
Designer or Goldsmith Artist ... What is the difference?
The following analogy
is an excerpt from a Looking-Glass.co.uk article. It makes a fascinating
argument why you should expect a jewellery maker claiming his
or her work as "handmade" ... to be actually handmade:
" "Craftwash"
is the term we have coined to describe craft makers claiming to
be handmade but using off-the-shelf pre-manufactured parts and
casting /molding processes which subsequently leave none or very
little of an item truly handmade - but perhaps with just a little
bit of assembly and polishing required at the end. When a village
tea shop sells "homemade" cakes you expect the cake
to be entirely made by the cake maker. So if the cake maker bought
fruit and sponge cakes and a pack of icing from the supermarket
and simply decorated it with hundreds and thousands, you would
either a) probably not know the difference or b) feel cheated.
You would imagine that when a jewellery designer and maker creates
his or her own individual jewellery piece that the all the crafting
work was handmade by the "maker". But this is often
not the case. The more intricate pieces that go into a piece of
jewellery, which require a lot of skill and effort to make by
hand, are now made by machines in factories. These are called
findings. Findings are bought as ready-made stock and include
complete chains, closing mechanisms, earring backs, clasps, cufflink
mechanisms and even entire rings (called blanks). In many cases
findings can make up as much as 50% of the entire piece of jewellery
and with band rings almost 100%.
An extreme end of faux-crafting, a high percentage of the dumbed-down
generation of "jewellery designers" don't even make
any part of their pieces ... the design is drawn out on a computer
with a few mouse clicks, rendered into a 3d model and then cast
in precious metals.
There are however one or two aspects of fine jewellery making
which may require specialist skills of another hand or caster,
such as some precious stone setting, certain engraving techniques
and casting from wax designs for more commercial jewellers to
produce repeats; and these are (up to a point) an accepted part
of jewellery creation outsourcing.
But using findings (and consistently cast pieces) as a way to
cut complex or laborious corners, and to even deceive the customer
into thinking the piece is handmade, is not a practice entertained
by genuine goldsmiths offering entirely hand-produced pieces ..."
This excerpt reproduced
here with permission of Looking-Glass.co.uk.
MORE INFORMATION
Back
to the Collections Main Menu
For all enquiries
please see our contact
page
|