Affordability ... a note by Kerstin

"Because of the high price of gold and platinum, the popular assumption for an "affordable" wedding band is often silver. But there are other exciting options. If your wedding budget is a little restricted I can also discuss with you lesser known recycled precious metal and crafting choices.
There is also the far less recognized aesthetic regarding what shade of precious metal may look best with your skin tone. This, to me is one of the most important style facets as I demonstrate that there is an extraordinary coalescence between precious metal hues and skin colour. This is why I also offer an exclusive selection of recycled precious metals of various hues. Below, I invite you to carefully consider mid-priced to high-end precious metal configurations which might enable you to choose a balance between long term durability, style and affordability."

Gold, Silver, Palladium or Platinum Band Rings? Which Colour?

NOTE: Kerstin Laibach only ever uses precious metals (always recycled) of the absolute highest quality - and none contain nickel.

LAIBACH'S RECYCLED PRECIOUS METAL CRAFTING OPTIONS INCLUDE:

• Platinum (highest grade with 95% platinum alloy)
• 24ct Gold (Fine gold used for various techniques and detail - also 20ct and 22ct)
• 18ct Yellow Gold 750/-
• White Gold (either 14ct or 18ct)
• Champagne Gold 18ct
• Hamilton Gold 14ct
• 18ct Rose Gold 750/-
• 18ct Red Gold 750/-
• 14ct Gold 585/- (Lighter Yellow)
• Green Gold (14ct) for special inlay and other detail work*
• Pd 950 Palladium
• Pd 500 Palladium
• Sterling Silver
• Fine silver (for various techniques)
• Combinations of precious metal options are also available

* As with all Laibach precious metals, green gold is recycled and not new-mined and thus ecologically the purest ethical option. Laibach's green gold is gold with a green hue and not to be confused with other jewellers promoting fair trade gold (which is new-mined) as "Green gold".

A Useful Description of Recycled Precious Metal Choices Used by Kerstin Laibach

a) RECYCLED STERLING SILVER:
It is important to understand that silver is a softer metal than gold and is much more prone to wear, damage and distortion when worn on a daily basis.
Kerstin Laibach crafts her silver rings with strength in mind to help withstand wear and tear associated with the softness of this precious metal. However, besides tarnishing** quickly, having a wedding ring made entirely in silver can in the long run prove to be a false economy as you will most certainly require it to be reinforced, remade or choose to replace with a gold, palladium or platinum version.
Due to the high price of gold, you may opt for silver instead. This is understandable, but in the long term you may wish to consider the following option.

b) RECYCLED PALLADIUM* (instead of silver):
Palladium is from the platinum group of metals but priced roughly in the middle between silver and gold. It's main advantage over silver is that it doesn't wear down and tarnish** like silver. Palladium has a distiguished character, conveying a "nobel" hue, much towards white gold and platinum.
Although harder than silver, palladium is softer than gold, and with heavy wear could suffer more from dents and slight distortion than its gold counterpart. However, because palladium is from the platinum group of metals with similar metallurgical characteristics, it is less likely to "wear down" so much as gold, (and far less than silver) but instead the metal "shifts".
There are two palladium options. Palladium 950 contains more pure palladium. Palladium 500 is slightly cheaper and is alloyed with more silver and copper, and is darker in colour (a similar hue to stainless steel) and is also slightly softer than Palladium 950.
* When gold prices are high and a piece made entirely of gold seems a little too far to stretch, Palladium is often touted as a more affordable and thus trendy option. I wish to stress that, trends aside, it is more aesthetically relevant to look at palladium as an enhancement of a design, just like any other colour of precious metal. I should also stress that, when applicable, the inclusion of palladium in my designs can be attributed to its durability as a long lasting asset to a jewellery piece.

c) A COMBINATION OF RECYCLED SILVER OR PALLADIUM WITH RECYCLED GOLD:
If a restricted budget is an issue but you still prefer the yellow hues of a gold on the upper surface, I mainly recommend combining an external layer of gold on top of a foundation / base design made of silver or palladium. The gold also helps keep the ring rigid over years of wear. This combination of metals in Laibach designs can also look very appealing.

d) RECYCLED YELLOW GOLD:
With options of 14, 18, 20 or 22 carat (depending on design) these steps also make a diference on the strength and durability of the ring. In yellow gold, the higher the carat means a more vivid colour, and when it comes to a balance of vibrancy and robustness, 18ct yellow gold is traditionally the most appealing for a long-term wedding band ... and it won't tarnish.
To give you a rough idea of its long-lasting characteristics, 18ct yellow gold is much more dense than silver and 50% heavier. 22ct (or even 24ct) is only usually suggested for rings as a design embelishment and in areas of the ring not subjected to too much impact. This is because higher carat gold is softer and can subsequently bend and dent more easily.
I do not use 9ct gold. Do not be fooled by the superficial appearance of a 9ct gold ring in a jewellery shop looking as radiant and intense as an 18ct gold ring. It only means it has been plated with a thin layer of fine gold which will soon wear off. (See plating information). 9ct gold has a very low gold content and so radiates much less colour. The mainly non-precious alloy metals in a 9ct gold ring means it tarnishes* and is less malleable in character. There is also more risk of allergic reactions with low carat rings. (Please note that none of the precious metals I use contain nickel alloying).

e) RECYCLED WHITE GOLD:
I provide two white gold options: 14 ct and 18ct., which is alloyed with palladium for best results. The slight diference in colour is that 18ct white gold has a more yellow hue, while 14ct is harder with a whiter hue. Depending on the design, either of these options are equally as appealing and I highly regarded either as a dependable material for creating special rings.

f) RECYCLED CHAMPAGNE GOLD:
I provide this subtle and beautifully stylish option in 18ct. Champagne gold is essentially a white gold but with different alloy ratio, (which still includes palladium) to give its unique, sophisticated tint.

g) RECYCLED HAMILTON GOLD:
As with champagne gold, Hamilton gold is another lesser known, delicately distinctive and stylish alternative to rose or yellow. Hamilton gold is a 14ct alloy which falls between the hues of 14ct red gold and 14ct yellow gold. (see picture below)

h) RECYCLED PLATINUM:
Platinum is the most dense of all precious metal options (100% heavier than silver). When contacting Laibach Atelier please always ask for a comparison quote between white gold options or platinum; depending on the current precious metal prices, platinum prices can occasionally be closely comparable with gold.

i) YOUR OWN GOLD FROM BROKEN / UNWANTED FAMILY JEWELLERY:
Providing the yellow or rose gold in old jewellery is of sufficient quality (hallmarked) for melting / alloying and forging, this is the most environmentally friendly path you can take when I create your jewellery piece. It means no refining and thus no extra transporting to refiners and processing. (Just as with gold recycling, all new mined gold has to be refined and thus graded so it can be properly hallmarked). Upon commissioning I will advise you as to how your old jewellery might be suitable for use ... for both ethical and sentimental consideration. More about this further down the page.

Please also note that for ethical reasons I do not use titanium or similar industrially alloyed chemical elements. See explanation at the bottom of this page.

** TARNISHING
With some people, silver and very low carat golds (particularly the inside of rings) can tarnish very quickly, while with others it can remain relatively untarnished for longer periods. It all depends on the skin chemistry of each individual. In rare occassions this increase in tarnishing may also become more apparent when you take medication. If you do have low carat gold pieces with alloys containing a higher copper mix, all you need to do is clean them more regularly to maintain their original appearance.

Left: Unpolished Palladium 500 on the left side and unpolished Sterling silver on the right side with a strip of unpolished 18ct gold laid on top.

Exquisite Recycled Gold Colour Choices

Kerstin Laibach is happy to discuss a much wider colour palette to create the perfect hue of recycled golds and other precious metals for your wedding bands.

Here are just some of the options:

IN 14ct RECYCLED GOLD

• Light yellow gold
• Yellow gold
• Rose gold
• Red gold
• Hamilton Gold
• White gold

IN 18ct RECYCLED GOLD

• Deep yellow gold
• Yellow gold
• Rose gold
• Red gold
• Champagne gold
• White gold

As partners, you may each wish to have the same Laibach ring design, but in different colours. I can suggest stunning colour matching combinations for band rings when shown together.
For example:

• Champagne Gold and Rose Gold
• Platinum and Red Gold
  
• Dark Palladium and Deep Yellow Gold

Recycled Precious Metal Pallettes
(Please note, due to different hues in computer / tablet screens these pallettes should only be refered to as a rough guide)

14ct Gold

18ct Gold

Platinum and Palladium

Please get in touch if you wish to further discuss these precious metal options for your Laibach rings.

Using Your Old Gold to Create Your New Rings. Kerstin explains this ... the most environmentally friendly and sentimental option.

"I specialize in crafting wedding and partnership rings and all other jewellery using your old family gold. This has become the most popular option with many of my clients, particularly with those visiting my atelier / gallery in the Black Forest. Apart from being the most environmentally-tuned method to create your rings, it also provides strong sentimental continuity. First I will inspect your old jewellery. If I see pieces which I firmly believe should not be melted down I will advise you to keep them. If neccessary, I can also restore or repair such fine pieces for you. If your old family gold is of a type and condition which would be suitable to melt into new rings for you, and has otherwise no redeeming value except for its scrap value, I will discuss the integration process with you during consultation."

How Thick Should my Rings Be?

When you wear the same ring daily such as wedding or engagement, it is under constant stress and the more busy your hands are the faster your ring is subjected to wear and tear. Therefore, the thickness and overall construction of a ring is one of the most important aspects to ensure longevity without it quickly suffering from bending, buckling and even loss of precious stones.
Many factory-made and some "designer" rings are often very thin underneath their aesthetic appearance. Thin means far less precious metal used and therefore a more attractive price to the customer. But such a flimsy ring ultimately means that wear and tear become quickly apparent - to an extent were it becomes shapeless, bent and ultimately of little heirloom value.
The principle of structural stability is integral to all high-end Laibach goldsmith designs - whether it be a plain court ring or a highly sculptured piece. To ensure such stability, a Laibach ring is always structurally balanced on every dimensional aspect - width, thickness and stone mounting supports. Importantly, all these aspects are taken into consideration when making a ring; based on your finger size, the width you require and how busy you are with your hands during your everyday life - either at work or play. These "engineering" factors are what determines robustness and stability to your lifelong investment while still retaining a balance between comfort and design appeal.
Kerstin Laibach hand-forges her rings to last, hopefully for generations and therefore the solid precious metal thickness of her band rings average at 2mm thick and never less than 1.5mm ... not a typical 0.8 to 1mm thickness often found elsewhere.
Please consider this important factor when enquiring for a cost estimate . It may be helpful to scroll back up this page to refer to KerstinLaibach's precious metal types and to consider how silvers, golds and platinums behave differently under wear and tear.

Two Rings on the Same Finger and other Q and A's

Q. Is there a downside to continuously wearing two rings on the same finger?
A. In some countries it is traditional to wear both an engagement and wedding ring on the same finger. The consequences of this is substantial wear and damage through continual rubbing of the two rings. Some marriage and engagement rings are designed to match and be worn together, but in the long term even matched rings eventually means side contact wear between the two due to constant friction, resulting in a slow but expensive loss and waste of precious metals, which at some point will mean major repair work to the two bands.
Kerstin Laibach undertakes the restoration of wedding-engagement sets and individual bands damaged through contact wear. But from the outset she advises couples to steer away from this common-style trend of contrived bridal sets which often don't "lock"together sufficiently to help minimize friction wear. Only on request, Kerstin Laibach offers linked wedding / engagement ring sets ... and these are uniquely precision made to be substantially locked together, creating almost zero friction wear. Please get in touch if you require this special design option.

Q. Why do you not use titanium?
A. The nature of titanium, being an “extreme” industrially alloyed chemical element, does not align with my principles and therefore I don’t see any redeeming / positive environmental aspects in specifically using the metal for vanity-wear such as jewellery.
From my perspective, there are far too many environmentally negative complexities throughout the entire manufacturing process of titanium - including alloying/recycling. The very high intensity of processing involved throughout and the general poor formability of titanium deem it unsuitable for true ethical and handcrafting practices. Titanium jewellery is not a hand-made product in the true sense of goldsmith forging and rolling, but instead machined using bars, tubes or sheeting – or pre-manufactured shapes. In most cases, titanium-based construction creates large amounts of pre-consumer waste (swarf etc.)
As a result, I do not use this metal and do not consider it an environmental choice for my jewellery creation – whether recycled or not.
In stark contrast to titanium, any environmental footprint is very, very much lighter when working with recycled classic precious metals - and above all, I can completely reform reclaimed classic metals to create new pieces indefinitely and with absolute minimal cost to the environment - something that you can’t do with a metal such as titanium – which lacks almost any malleable characteristics.
Titanium jewellery sellers often tout it’s hypolallergenic properties. However, I should point my clients to a Laibach page which discusses the pros, cons and myths about jewellery allergies. www.kerstinlaibach.com/ethicalweddingrings/allergies.htm
I should also point out that rings made of titanium cannot easily be resized - something which most ring wearers will require, possibly many times, over the years. The amount by which a titanium ring can be resized is so minimal to be essentially irrelevant in comparison to what the wearer may actually require. However, on rare occasions I do have clients who bring in titanium rings for resizing. Depending on the size and shape, I can sometimes offer creative solutions to an otherwise inflexible problem.

More detailed Q and A's regarding Kerstin Laibach's ethical and vegan approach based on her principles can be found here.